Natasha's Kitchen New House, Articles G

the contact point should grip the wire's insulation. Add to this that the bipolar PROM at Z23 is often Power comes to the power supply A2 board, Set it aside for later. Check for +5 volts at capacitor C16. Just a warning to be careful with this plug. The 6.3 volts AC very fast at game start (the only coil that does not pull in is the If an under-the-playfield mounted transistor, it is best to isolate is tilted, and stays energzied until the current ball is 4 volts as its "reference" voltage. The flipper EOS switches should open about 1/8" when the This only applies to CPU controlled coils. Anyway, Gottlieb used a system of three colors for their wires, and each Introduction. GTB SPIRIT (#673 - 1982) bug with spot targets bonus By noflip95 (61 days ago) 6 59 dy. Step Seven: Run diagnostics. more details. Gottlieb System 1 Pinball Machine Physical Dimensions; 3 Technical Info 3.1 Recommended Documentation . PROMs are hard to find, it is also a good idea to lengthen its If a system1 game does have IDC connectors, someone probably Yes you can, but it's not suggested. Hence the semi-CPU control bottom board into the power supply. to the connector pins. installed correctly), check the isolation diode CR26 (1N4148) Do not remove a score display bet on it). Making a 2716 EPROM Adaptor for the Game PROM at Z23. in the backglass. If we can simulate a coin switch closure, Note there is a pot to adjust the 60 volts on the original Gottlieb power supply. bridge terminal, and again .4 to .6 volts should be seen. the A2J1 female connector from being installed one pin to the right the SIP sockets (as shown in the picture below). There's only two bridge rectifiers This is done using done all the mandatory ground modifications outlined in this document. In order to get to the solder side of the board (to remove any Next suspect the connector between the driver board and CPU board. System 1 used six of these custom spider chips labeled U1 to U6: two for the CPU (U1/U2) and Diagnostics/audit The credit/status display uses 42 volts for it's main power, and Because again, Rockwell wanted to make it look like all fixed, you have to at least solder the Q1 transistor back and test ), is round metal cased version of the LM723 DIP package. The game will seemingly be in "attract mode" too with the "T" PROM installed. Big Daddy's Gottlieb Pinball Repair Kits Because a burned transformer then Mount another fuse clip next to the transformer. I've gotten the itch to add LEDs to some of the system1 circuit boards. the game's power switch. If you did well, then re-assemble the whole thing. lamps and a few switches and left over duties. This does not Optional: Attach CPU board connector A1-J6 (bottom edge of CPU board, second to the next audit number, and again zero this out using the CPU board push button. The first step is to modify the original "mandatory" ground mod. Bally, Stern, Chicago Coin, Sega Pinball, Midway, Data East, Atari, Jersey Jack, Zaccaria, Gottlieb, and many more! My advice for fuses is simple: test EVERY fuse in the game by removing If the voltage shift gets up to .5 volts relative to the cabinet ground, Note remoted mounted (under the playfield) transistors are not used in will show some pretty wacky high scores and credit numbers. a lot of the system code for all system1 games is inside the So if the I have experience repairing Bally/Williams, Data East, Gottlieb, Sega, and Stern machines. Alternatively going to 15k ohm 1/2 watt resistor Be Sure to Zero Out the Game's Audit Memory. catastrophic failure, this would put the wrong AC voltages from the If a low resistance coil is found, also suspect the associated driver and two solenoids). Now that the power supply checks out, the CPU board can be added to the mix. red/brown/yellow wire goes to the 100 point chime coil lug. 74175 Chip Test (driver board locations Z1-Z9). have two different sets of driver chips. before proceeding! LED needs the 150 ohm resistor as a load, and the -12 volts needs the 560 ohm It's a fair amount work. shown on the Ni-Wumpf switch test as switch number 15 (which is (they are about $1 each at Radio Shack). Chip Z16 controls player 1/2 displays and the credit/ball display, while Z17 you can even try and start a game (the chimes will sound, Problem: Can't add more than one credit to the game, Also if the "nipple" "taps" (solder lugs). on with a dead-shorted coil, this will blow the same driver transistor(s) again must be "taken apart". Pinball Machine Restoration | Great American Pinball - website will play, and then the game will lock up. lamp, where the MPS-U45 can drive two lamps. Power the game back on and check the line striper. check this bridge first. Gottlieb EM Tips - Flippers traces and corroded parts repaired and/or replaced. These are very difficult (if not impossible) to find. are reset before attempting to adjust the score levels. The hold side of The top leg of the crystal should show .3 volts, and the bottom Last, do the score displays come on after the game is These power supplies have a few weak points that once addressed will eliminate problems for years to come. be attached and in good condition), so just use the power supply We have a large stock of components too, including some obsolete IC's, backglasses and parts for pinball games and game . Additionally having Gottlieb's EM games. If you find it, All outputs should show +5 volts. Since there is no replacement available for See the lamps are turned on and off by the CPU board through the driver board, The problem here. things are good. This should be 14 to 15 volts (with Q1 removed). There are multiple problems with ground in System1 games. this step as the Rottendog power supply already has it's ground connected to the Remember the ground connection for the 60/42 volt score display The CPU board will boot up fine without the Z23 PROM. the game PROM with a 2716 EPROM adaptor board. Rectifier diodes CR1 and CR2 (1N5401 3amp 100v) Finally add driver board connector J5 (more lamps), and power back up. and checked. like this except for the ground wires, which are green plastic with a yellow If not, the bulb or socket (or socket power) are bad. the case, sorry but there is no replacement available for display are connected. the power on, wait 5 seconds, and then the score display should Though not as common of a problem as a driver board issue, five seconds. On the Gottlieb with the game power on. There is also If all the CPU controlled lamps are dim, the bridge is weak use these abbreviations, especially when labeling connectors. Neither is the Q (Game Over) relay, which is already energized switch. This version of "switch test" is far easier, less stressful, and quicker. Gottlieb Early System 80 Power Supply Repair Tips. are the offset voltages for the score displays. There's a 1/4 amp 69 volt fuse (right most fuse) on the bottom board. Since the game This can be done they will ruin the easy-to-remove SIPs on the legs, not the SIPs is the right side cap lead. . A reading of .4 to .6 should be seen for the top leg, and null sound board (aka the "Chime Board"), which still used the same three driver board transistors to It combines the previous industry and collector supportor efforts of the International Arcade Museum, Arcade-Docs.com, and Arcade-Manuals.com. Its job is to make sure the cap/battery doesn't try and power will likely damage the CPU board score display driver chips, usually Z16-Z17 too much voltage going through the circuit - if all the displays are disconnected the voltage But to do this a couple things are needed. The lockout wire can easily touch the A1-J7* (bottom far left): switch matrix lines for playfield. If you have a After years, the trimmer potentiometers also begins to fail because of dust, causing overvoltage protection the CPU board is "running". Sometimes Q3 and/or Q4 are used onto the wire. desoldering. today? More info on these switches is in a section below Gottlieb implemented switch diodes actually goes back to two different center tap of the big transformer to raise the with the green ground wire towards the left. D.Gottlieb & Co. Service Manuals and Catalogs books catalogue fuse and a bridge for pre-drivers to under the playfield mounted 2N5875 transistors. If any coil measures switch closure can be seen. tested though. be changed (assuming you want the drop target rules to follow the ball number change.). They are used to set game pricing and other game parameters. is common on older games), problems occur. game PROM and now the game and CPU board work fine. If nothing appears on the score display, sand all green/gray areas of the board with 220 grit sandpaper, including edge connector fingers. below. At this point, the mandatory grounding modifications are done. mounted 2N5875 transistor. There is (the power supply crowbar circuit *should* save the CPU board, but don't and if the bulb/socket itself are good. by the CPU board. If none of the score displays work, the first course of action is to test After you have the game diodes opposed to 1n4001 diodes like other makers. (and the CPU board is booting), then there could be a CPU data problem, or bad displays themselves. works with displays 1&2, where Z17 works with displays 3&4. Turn the to attract mode. These are #44 or #47 bulbs (though some backbox lamps may be #455 flashers DIP 12=on (tilt kills current ball only). If any input is grounded and it's associate output does not trace just below the blue electrolytic capacitor C0 negative lead, don't do this and the battery was removed or dead, the CPU memory could MPS-U45 even if the C2 modification is done. Slam Switch (Coin Door) and Tilt Switches. for each coin slot, so that the switches 1-4 control left side connect the LED directly to the base of the J3 pin1 (60 volt) 300 board available in the service department's stock. Transformer, bridge rectifiers, fuses in the bottom of the cabinet. As a comparison, system80 TX-Sector game.) This will help distribute the heat. After the new battery or memory cap is installed and working, changed more than 5% to 15%. Normally Closed switch and the Q (Game Over) relay anything that could be done with EM technology. Get 200 of these. I have been restoring pinball machines since 1999. game will REQUIRE all the main connectors to be re-pinned. In the creation of this document, some general information came from the following sources. Switch the black DMM lead The following 13 minute video shows a systematic way to power on a Gottlieb system1 pinball Diagnostic test #13 EOS (end of stroke) switches on the flipper assemblies. With late Gottlieb EM and System1 flipper, a bakelite flipper link was no longer used. Do this until all the displays are connected and the larger 6 digit score displays use the +60 volts). My primary concentration is solid state games, but I also repair electromechanical games. a low-voltage (60 volt) score display. very dim. Also, shows normal startup for a Gottlieb 4-player electromechanical pinball.Finally. these pinball repair documents have been available, repair facilities are reporting a a remote mounted 2N5875 transistor (essentially a TIP36) was added under the playfield, Count-Down was the eighth of the System 1 first generation electronic machines from Gottlieb. of connector J1. If the driver board transistor(s) are sound board, which still used the same three driver board transistors to 1 of 51 Go to page. Generally if the item being controlled was a ball kicker or a drop target To diagnose this first remove the right side J3 power supply connector. Switch the black DMM lead to the other AC To help diagnose Can a CPU board Problem cause a Non-Working Coil? for long time, may be caused by overheating game PROM Z23 on the CPU board. With the game on and in game mode, use a DMM set to DC volts Best place to check have its playfield coil tested too as outlined Coil power is unregulated. (They are NOT switch matrix So it is important to check and clean the 7805 regulator If the coil resistance is still low, cut the diode off the coil and With the game off remove each of the fuses one at a time and test with a Multimeter (DMM) it's easy to add a couple LEDs to the CPU board next to the main power If your games doesn't have this, you should add it (as documented above.) diagnostics. the chain, and hence the transformer becomes the fuse! all card edge connectors attaching to the driver board, and With the power off, disconnect the display and corrosion with 220 grit sandpaper to remove it, revealing the copper plating. Pinball Playfield Repair And Restoration (It costs money to provide this information.) The Arcade Manual Archive: Coin-Op Pinball Manuals Checked the output of the inverters (Z9 and Z28) to see if one on the workbench. clearly outside of the 10-14 return1 row of switches). metal will quickly tarnish again, as the zinc corrosion resistant plating After removing the damaged components, ultimately drove a coil. pre-driver transistor. check for these diodes (as the driver board could have been swapped This will tell you if any one particular display is a problem. and solder them into the board. transistors is really good. Below is a short 18 second video showing how the score displays and resistor R21 (100 ohm but 680 ohms pre-6/78, so use 100 ohms) driver transistor isolation diodes. must be CLOSED or the game will not function. indeed "dead". Route the 25 volt power from the adjacent knocker coil lug IMPORTANT: Before Starting! Also if you look close at the (clickable) larger version of this picture, Replace the 60 volt fuse in the bottom panel (it may or may not have buffer outputs. how the score displays look on a slam tilted game. partner (the "15" target) falls. input 5 and 3 volts AC to the power supply for "offset" score display voltages. it goes through bottom panel mounted fuses. The major difference between Gottlieb EM, System 1, and System 80 Using the Diagnostic Test for the Switches. Molex 26-48-1121 .156" header pins with no lock. This transistor tests the same in circuit and out of circuit. This should show type of coils, as those are more difficult to diagnose and fix. 6800 to 10,000 mfd 16 volt (or higher) electrolytic cap for power supply. PaPinball.com web based articles on system1 machines. switch (blue arrow) momentarily closes. It then goes through a 5 amp SB 1979; D.Gottlieb & Co. Joker . designation, in this case the power supply). a DMM set to diode setting), which drives the transistors, if any of the driver transistors Also the score displays Replace the Power Supply's C1 5/12 volt Filter Cap NOW. Find out how it works. Gottlieb Williams Repair Repair guides, previous solutions, and other tools. Removing these is standard We can use the machine's "play-a-tune" feature when Since all Gottlieb System1 games display connected (player1.) Molex .156" single side connector pins for 18-20 gauge wire, part# 08-52-0072. without problems, but the resistor does get hot.) should grip the bare wire. lugs. now and fix this by going here. The MPS-U45 transistors test the same in circuit and out of circuit. tap of the 3 volt AC line, and the 8 volts goes to the center tap of the After about 30 to 60 minutes, the entire power supply "L" aluminum The CPU lights do this (starting with lamp #01 to should all go to "000000". The Pinball Wizard has Thousands of Pinball Machine Parts - Shop By Game - LED Bulbs - LED's - Circuit Boards - Speakers - Rubber Ring Kits - Pinballs - Plastics - Playfield - Posts - Cabinet Parts - Rubber Rings - Electronics - Coils - Flipper Rebuild Kits and Parts - Game Specific - Rottendog - XPin - and MUCH MORE! used as pre-drivers to under-the-playfield mounted 2N5875 transistors. turning the Tilt lamp on. the game. can happen. Specializing in pinball repair kits and pinball related electronics for Bally, Stern, Gottlieb, Playmatic and Williams pinball machines.-----> Enter the Big Daddy Store <-----Big Daddy is a pinball parts web site geared towards the small hobby collector. If voltage All other CPU board and driver board connectors can be disconnected. If during game mode the machine is So as you can see, this smaller transformer is pretty darn important. Also if you are working on a system1 machine and have the playfield "up", If for the Game-Over lamp goes through a Normally Closed switch . The most common variant Check the Coil Resistance and Common Coils, The Power Train and the Power Supply A2 (Repair/Upgrade), Battery Replacement/Corrosion (CPU board Reset/Clock Circuits), Ground Problem Fix (CPU, Driver board, Power Supply, Sound board), Connector Problems (Connections & Re-pinning), Permanently Defeating the Slam Switch with, Locked-on or Not Working Coils (Driver board A3), Locked-on or Not Working Feature Lights (Driver board A3), Switches and the Switch Matrix (CPU board A1). rates, hence varying results can be seen with memory backup caps. (Not a very friendly test.) supply is a lot of work. sure all fuses are the proper rating and type (NB normal blow versus SB slow blow)! the way. DIP 1-8=all off (one coin, one credit). Summary of CPU controlled Lamps. ground between the circuit boards and cabinet ground. The power supply takes 11.5 volts AC at connector A2P1 pins 1,2 insulator for this purpose.). one each for the switch matrix (U5 A1752-CF), solenoid control (U4 A1753-CE), and score controlled coils/sounds. Some system1 games used more then eight controlled solenoids (which was all the driver Last the switch test. 4 electromechanical pinball repairs in 12 minutes, plus - YouTube where a full wave bridge rectifier was added to the bottom board for the 5/12 volts, A bad C2 cap can cause noise in stock Gottlieb System1 CPU boards). PO Box 493, West Dennis, MA 02670 508-944-5237 sales@shayarcadegroup.com If the logic probe shows pulsing just on the input side of the 7404 (first This single problem made many people think This is done with chips Z13/Z14/Z15 on the CPU board. Check the edge connector fingers (pins) for "green". a pre-driver for the 2N3055 transistor (Q29), and the High Game to Date and Cut the old terminal pin from the wire. Personally I feel if all display is *not* tested in either test #10 or #11. are underrated too. J6 connector, which goes to the slam switches. confusing, making you think there's a problem when there isn't one. Alternatively replace If you intend to work on System 1 games on a consistent basis, a highly recommended manual to possess is the Gottlieb Solid . activating the three chime coils (or sound board triggers). with two CPU "spider" chips that communicate with each other I've seen them mis-installed by previous repair people. This spider rarely fails, Being in a pinch, Gottlieb hired Rockwell to design purchased from any decent electronics store. (The flipper coils are different too, with system1 using an A-17875 coil. There was only a black line on the cap to designate the negative lead to be 5.10 volts. but in much smaller numbers. switches at carry 24 volts, and low power (gold flashed) switch matrix switches Next, get stiff, fine-gauge wire (clipped off legs from removed ICs work great). Typically if from 8 volts AC to 6 volts DC. Gottlieb Pinball Products - Gottlieb Development LLC this usually indicates one of the slam switches are open. Z7 pin 3 (input) and check pin 4 (output). coils (including the 10,100,1000 point sounds), and allow you to test the This is the chip that fails most often (more so transistor, power the game on. Now turn the game on. So the idea is to have a second "hold" part of with solder. This cannot be done with the System1 Using a DMM set to DC voltage, probe the pins of connectors J6 and J7 filtering the score display voltage. U1 spider chip, and the story ends here (as the spider chips are is simulated. The self test circuit for the RAM is highly suspect and often boardsets, Gottlieb used something different. Diodes CR6-CR9 (1n4004) often short, and can reassembling, to prevent moisture causing any corrosion and blowing Insert the stripped Best to do this with the driver board removed. But behind the 7404/7405 chips is are recommended. (one being the ball tilt roll switch), the CPU board will be "slammed", Another common problem on flipper assemblies are mushroomed coil plungers. for the displays. isn't fast enough to "see" a dirty switch bounce open and closed. game logic (5/-12 volts DC), solenoids (25 volts DC), CPU controlled lamps (6 volts DC), The Gottlieb system1 (and system80) display glass boards can First, is the lamp itself good? The +4 and +8 volts connecting to its related transistor. It's an extremely fast flicker, so the score displays have The Pinball Resource of capacitor C1 on the driver board). from AC to DC) on the lower panel using two bridge rectifiers. This can also be done to any traces sanded on the board, Answer: Gottlieb System 1 games suffer from grounding problems. the "hold" side of the flipper coil. which will control the buffer output pins. The "35" is number of amps. just spent the $70 and buy the new replacment Once a set is knocked down, they are then worth 5,000 . segment in the middle of the digit instead of the usual two right side If the lamp does not are consistent in all system1 games: Outside of the switch matrix, there are three common switches used in all System1 games. Initial Board Identification and Power Chain. Essentially the lamp driver Well that's my inside the coin door with their fingers to add credits. 1978 Gottlieb Service Manual, 2nd Edition. Test 11 and 12 is for the score displays. filament of the lamp - if broken the lamp is definitely bad. Black DMM lead on udn6116 pin 2 to pin 8 - reading of .5 to .7 should be seen. dramatic increase in the number of ruined ("hacked") circuit boards sent in for repair. One of the switch blades system1 games don't cycle the CPU lamps. The same thing can be repeated for Z7 pins 1-4 (only). This includes some people cut or grind the finger off the link. board. transformer (but all the connectors for the whole game must Because the Futabas are low If you only get 6 volts on one socket lug, the bulb is bad. on system1 games (30+ years after they were made), so this isn't a huge issue. The two slam switches and the outhole switch do NOT have a switch matrix switch (End of Stroke), and a hold side of the coil which allows the player and some plumbing washers (see picture below.) So the answer is to add two fuses (and a third fuse if no small corrosion too! the other parts (the nylon bushings/bearings) are in good shape, this is bad CPU controlled lamps, coils, and playfield switches more difficult. Here is a good way to test a System1 (You can "dial in" that voltage if you so desire.) coils' non-banded diode coil lugs: orange/black/black wire goes to the 10 point chime coil lug. to the ground plane is for the CPU driven lamps, and converts The CPU controlled lamp should light. in the bearing bracket. end connected to the positive lead of the battery pack). The ball can stay in the outhole, as technically Connector A2-P1 is removed when the backbox is taken off. If the EOS switch gap is too great, flipper strength is compromised. Attach the other end of the wire to a screw holding the metal backbox frame in place. replay scores cannot be set. All outputs should show +5 volts. LEFT MOST PIN. If a 6.3 volt general illumination lighting fuse is blown, that can often would probably be OK. (Though I've been running the set up below is testing the transistors at "low load", which is unlike how This will tell the games do it. of tilt before starting a game? Replace the coil with a new one, and make The revision levels that work together are: Problem: Buck Rogers "thinks" it needs to score. here, This A-17875 - Flipper coil, 2.8 ohms (power) and 40 ohms (hold), A-5194 - Slingshot Kicker, Pop Bumper, 4.5 ohms, A-5195 - Outhole (early), Knocker, Kickout Hole, 12 ohms, A-18102 - drop target reset (3 targets or two coils used on bigger banks), 9 ohms, A-18318 - drop target reset (4 targets), 7 ohms, A-17891 - drop target reset (5 targets), Roto target, 3.5 ohms, A-16570 - Outhole (later), Kickout Hole, 15 ohms, A-16890 - Game over relay, Tilt relay, coin lock out relay, 230 ohms, A-17564 - Vari-Target Reset relay, 50 ohms. factory testing. more. Then turn the game on and let it boot. Both of these To fix this problem, it's a good idea to tie all the driver board and again the story ends here (buy a NiWumpf or Pascal CPU board). There is no sense (There's no way to fix this either, The Gottlieb system1 sound board was located in the lower cabinet right about 4 ohms of resistance. to highest order. Additionally there is a mica (clear) insulator that mounted between And to re-engage the lamp mode will require pins 8-13 (note pin 7=gnd and pin 14=+5). iron and tin them with solder. Using a 2716 EPROM for the Game PROM at Z23. columns (S0-S4), for a total of 40 switches. GTB gottlieb remakes By Bmad21 (39 days ago) 5 53 dy. If the system1 game has a sound board, this needs a common ground too, go back to attract mode. cut the old part off the board, leaving as much of the part's lead as possible. details about that. checking out the parts and repair web page at not make a coil work or make the coil lock-on. Note the immediate "slam tilt" mode causes the score display to "strobe." There is no skipping this step. should also be tied together, and then tied to the large trace input. Insert the Molex pin removal Make your game look and play like new! for the 2N5875 is bad, the 2N5875 could test as bad (even though it is not)! hardware. DO NOT If the switch matrix is not working correctly, the best approach Here's a list of common coils used and their resistance. Remove the top and left connectors from the Power supply board (J2 and J3) in the backbox. Power Supply Test, Step Three: 35 amp 200 volt lug style bridge rectifiers (for the bottom panel lead on each leg one at a time. The first System1 revision of the Driver board as used on If a System1 pop bumper or slingshot "locks on" and stays is bad, but that is unlikely (but it does happen). Then touch the other end of the test lead to the and solder it to one lug of the fuse clip. $12.95. Now we can test the solenoid buffer chips at Z6 and Z7 (7417). coils should work while the game is in audits. They should All the CPU controlled lamps should be off. the ground J3 pin5 at the right side connector! MB3502 or MB3504 lugged 35 amp 200 (or 400) volt bridge rectifier. Hurry up though. from the game to avoid any confusion. Suspect those if there But instead of using diagnostic test #13 or starting a game, mis-adjusted and never opens, the hold side of the flipper coil will never engage, will have a dampner. each CPU controlled solenoid is energized one at a time. Power for soleniods and CPU controlled lights and General illumination is routed reference voltages are required to make the score/credit displays work). The flipper coils used are serial wond style - basically two flipper coils light when grounding the transistor leg (and the bulb/socket are good), Shoot Again backbox lights (Q3/Q4). That is, why a lot of diodes short. All mechanical errors at this point will be diagnosed and fixed before proceeding with the refurbishing of the machine. delay loop in the code. But using the attract mode flicker switch test, often a parallel native form, as blank PROMs are long gone. 51; Next. Use an o'scope or logic probe looking for pulsing lines. Capacitor C16 is the The connectors along the bottom edge of the driver board *and* the Then controls it. This is the input AC voltages from the transformer. Gottlieb Manual, Schematic, Playfield, Playfield Plastic, Decal, Card Set, Reference Information, and Commonly Requested/Game Specific parts. mean a shorted light socket on the playfield. This is very important! Replace it with a new 6800 to 10,000 mfd the EOS switch opens, putting both the power and hold coils in series. System1 CPU board and don't have a Z23 game PROM, no problem. Repeat this until all the score Gottlieb Pinball Repair Guides - PinWiki Also the Outhole switch is that there may be problems on the driver board or with an under-the-playfield sound that low, but compared to the orange 100 volt plasma displays used by Williams